Nestled in the hilltops just over an hour from the propulsive beat of Barcelona is Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia. It is ten train stops west and worlds away, settled firmly in the oasis that is Alt Penedès. The area, though famous for Cava, is home to a tightly-knit web of natural winemakers fighting decades of monoculture. They see beauty in these sprawling, clay-twinged slopes; they see biodiversity in their rugged, sweeping valleys. Among these trailblazers are Agustì Costa and Paula Sandoval of Cal Xurriu.

The young Agustì hails from a long lineage of grape-growers, but he has struck out on his own as a winemaker, now joined by his ebullient partner Paula. Contrary to his father, who farmed upwards of 60 hectares of grapes (a large portion of which would be sold), Agustí prioritized searching for micro plots: what he calls “special vineyards.” These small pockets–not conducive to large-scale farming–are mesmerizing examples of Penedès’ magic and mystique, often overlooked in the pursuit of bulk wine production. “Nobody wants them, because in Penedès everybody wants to make a lot of kilos for the Cava,” says Paula. Good news for Agustì. 

Agustì leads us to one of his favorite parcels, accessible only by foot and perched on a hill, hidden by a dense thicket of trees: a biophysical colosseum. Entering this place feels like being told a precious secret. We are invited to walk across soil tilled just yesterday, to feel the cloud-like dirt under our feet. We close our eyes. When we open them, we see small white wildflowers dotting each row, as if placed there by a pointillist painter. Alongside them grow wild asparagus, rosemary, and olive trees, erupting from clay and limestone soil that feels like freshly-ground espresso in our fingers.

He treats these parcels—and the life they’re home to—with utmost reverence. Plants that other farmers might find harmful and competitive are allowed to flourish. The vines before us remain un-pruned on this mid-February day; we ask Agustì when he’ll get around to it, and he replies, “when the vines ask.” Wild goats and boar roam the adjacent forests, often meandering into Agustí’s vineyards to dine on the labors of his 100-year-old vines. “Life is about sharing,” he says earnestly, hoping instead that the animals will keep to themselves. “Of course I could do something, but they are part of this [ecosystem]. I am only sitting here and asking ‘please don’t come’” he exclaims, raising his hands to the sky with an animated chuckle.

Down in another parcel of 60-year-old Macabeu, closer to the unmarked road that brought us here, Agustí recounts a “heart-stopping” moment some years ago. Out of nowhere, a channel of wind swept down the slope as the leaves of vines encircled him, like a gentle hug. Agustí was overwhelmed with emotion. He began thanking the vineyard for letting him take care of it and followed the wind as it guided him up the hill, through the vines: a hallelujah moment which brought him to tears. 

It’s quintessential Agustì; his cool, chiseled and somewhat stoic demeanor belied by genuine vulnerability and compassion. He loves farming, and wants nothing more than to protect these ancient parcels—to allow them to prosper as if we, mere visitors, had never been here at all. 

It shows in his wines; they are delicate, but not fragile. Vivacious, but unassuming. Brimming with his love and care, but undoubtedly of the terroir that gave him permission to make them.

CAL XURRIU

Country: Catalunya

Region: Alt Penedès

Sub-region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia

Winemakers: Agustì Costa and Paula Sandoval

Viticulture: Biodynamic

Terroir: clay, limestone, sand

Size:

Website: www.xurriu.com
Instagram: @calxurriu

CAL XURRIU :: Instint Animal Blanc

A fresh and vibrant blend of Macabeu, Xarello, Parellada, and Malvasia. Balanced with generous fruit.

Vintage: NV
Varieties: Macabeu, Xarello, Parellada, Malvasia
Style: White Wine
ABV: 13%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Clay, limestone, sand
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Direct-pressed
Aging: Stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: Minimal at bottling

CAL XURRIU :: Instint Animal Negre

A soulful blend of all the grapes under the Cal Xurriu sun: Macabeu, Xarello, Parellada, Chardonnay, Vermentino, Sumol, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Marselan.

Vintage: NV
Varieties: Macabeu, Xarello, Parellada, Chardonnay, Vermentino, Sumol, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Marselan
Style: Red Wine
ABV: 14%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Age of Vines:
Soils: Clay, limestone, sand
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Co-fermentation
Aging: Stainless steel
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: Minimal at bottling

CAL XURRIU :: Les Feixes

A truly ethereal single-parcel Macabeu from a parcel that sits atop a magical hill surrounded by olive trees and songbirds. Toeing the line of opulence and linearity, this is truly a special wine that oozes emotionality, both of the maker, and the 120+ year old vines that have produced it.

Vintage: 2021
Varieties: Macabeu
Style: White Wine
ABV: 12%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Age of Vines: 120+ years
Soils: Clay, limestone and a touch of sand
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Direct-pressed
Aging: Barrels
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: None

CAL XURRIU :: Lo Primer

From a single vineyard teetering on 80 years of age, this timeless Sumoll harks back to a whimsical past and energizing vision for the future: one of minimal intervention and maximum observation. Born of clay and limestone peppered with river pebbles; one of the most ethereal wines we’ve ever tasted. 1200 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2021
Varieties: Sumoll
Style: Red Wine
ABV: 12%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Age of Vines: 80+ years
Soils: Clay, limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Carbonic maceration followed by 50% foot stomping after seven days. Near the end of fermentation, all grapes are introduced to a pneumatic press. After malolactic fermentation is complete, the wine is racked and left to “rest without play” until bottling (March 2022)
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: None

CAL XURRIU :: Xanduné

This show-stopper of a wine is bound to turn heads at first sip, begging the question: ‘is this really Chardonnay?’ 700 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2021
Varieties: Chardonnay
Style: Orange Wine
ABV: 12%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Age of Vines: 15 years
Soils: Clay, limestone and a touch of sand
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fermented on skins throughout the fermentation process with daily punchdowns. Followed by six months of aging in 300L used French oak barrels with bâtonnage every 15 days, culminating in one year of aging in stainless and another year of aging in bottle.
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: None

CAL XURRIU :: El Bosc

Single-parcel old-vine Xarello from an idyllic vineyard called El Bosc, surrounded on three sides by forest, crops and olive trees. It is an “exceptional plot of clay with a high percentage of limestone, worked with a very personal approach” to viticulture — one of “no action and maximum observation.” A respite from the bustle of Barcelona, only 40 km away, this parcel is ruled by a great diversity of flora and fauna— inhabited only by wild goats, boar, and the pensive winemaker with whom they share the vines. 950 bottles produced.

Vintage: 2021
Varieties: Xarello
Style: White Wine
ABV: 11%
Region: Alt Penedès
Sub-Region or Appellation: Sant Sadurnì d’Anoia
Viticulture: Biodynamic
Age of Vines: 95 years +
Soils: Clay, limestone
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Direct press, whole cluster, followed by fermentation in stainless. Racked once and left to rest until bottling (March 2022)
Fining or Filtering: None
Sulfur: None