HOLGER KOCH
BADEN
Holger’s wines are grandpa chic—that is to say, they are how Burgundy used to taste when grandpa was just a fresh young lad: pre-global warming. It used to be that you’d struggle for ripeness in the Kaiserstuhl, even though it’s the warmest climate in Germany. But with rising temperatures throughout Europe, what used to be Burgundy now tastes like Weingut Holger Koch.
It makes sense; France is just twenty minutes away. In fact, the winery is so close to Alsace that during WWII, Holger’s grandmother could stand in the vineyard and see bombs going off across the Rhine River. Whether it’s geographical proximity or the selection massale cuttings from Puligny-Montrachet and Alsace (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Silvaner, Grauburgunder, Weißburgunder and Spätburgunder) or the terroir-based approach, these wines are distinctly French with a German accent.
Indeed, Holger and his wife Gabriele seem to straddle cultural borders themselves. When you first meet them, you’re struck by how German they seem, but by the time you leave, you’re left wondering if they are in fact French. What at first appears structured and reserved reveals itself to be very generous—romantic, even.
HOLGER KOCH
Country: Germany
Region: Swabia
Sub-region or Appellation: Baden
Winemakers and Owners: Holger Koch, Gabriele Koch
Viticulture: Practicing Organic (Certified until 2014)
Terroir: Mainly loess, with some exposed volcanic soils
Size: 8 ha
Harvest: Labor Facts
Website: weingut-holger-koch.de
The way they classify their wines is complicated on the surface but actually quite simple, mirroring the Burgundian system. Their wines ascend like a rope ladder draped over the side of a hill. The rule of thumb is this: the more gluggable the wine, the more loess in the soil, the lower on the ladder. The more intense the wine, the higher its volcanic content, the higher its position on the ladder.
The Kaiserstuhl wines, which sit lowest on the ladder, come from loess soils on the flattest land with the least wind and lowest elevation.
The Herrenstück terraces, a level up, all sit at higher elevations than the Kaiserstuhl, but on different mixtures of soil — giving each wine that results its own distinct terroir. Going up the ladder, the loess topsoil grows thinner, the volcanic soil more concentrated, the wind more forceful.
These variables (soil, elevation, wind) permutate from parcel to parcel. This is how Holger chooses his Selections: the best grapes from the Herrenstück, classified as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. The Reserve wines are the “summit.” They contain the ultimate grapes chosen each vintage from each Herrenstück terrace. When you reach the peak, you can close your eyes, take a whiff, and you’ll think you’re in Burgundy.
Just as in Burgundy, though, global warming has changed the game. Holger and his wife Gabriele started noticing in 2015 that their prized high and windy terraces were most at risk. Volcanic soil traps heat, so in warmer years the grapes would be at risk of roasting or drying out. They are extremely careful to harvest at precisely the right moment. “All spring and summer we’re trying to bring healthy grapes,” Gabriele says. They are tasting off the vine constantly, so they know exactly when the grape reaches the perfect balance of “lecker (delicious) and not too sweet.” It’s not an exact science and of course nature delivers curveballs beyond their control. But “better a day too soon than a day too late.”
CURRENT RELEASES
Wines of the Kaiserstuhl
HOLGER KOCH :: Ja Goutte!
Grauburgunder, Müller-Thurgau, and this year, Sauvignon Blanc join forces in this playful cuvée made exclusively for Super Glou. Meant to convey the French soul of Holger’s wines—half German, half French—‘Ja Goutte!’ (pronounced ya-GOOT) means “yes, it’s good!” or “yes, I’ll have the last drop!” depending on the interpretation. It has been described in the same breath as a “salty porch pounder” and “fucked up delicious white Burgundy.”
These grapes, which sit lowest on the ladder, come from loess soils on the flattest land with the least wind and lowest elevation. The intention was to create a quaffable, approachable wine whose label would embody the juice inside. 5% macerated, aged in wooden barrels sur lie for at 5 months.
Vintage: 2023
Grapes: 80% Grauburgunder, 12% Müller-Thurgau, 5% Pinot Blanc 3% Sauvignon Blanc
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 12%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg (from different vineyards around the village Bickensohl)
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 20 year old
Soils: Loess with a small amount of volcanic soils, on the flattest land at the lowest elevation
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: grapes are vinified separately (5% of the grauburgunder is mash-fermented), then blended
Aging: Aged sur lie for 7 months in wooden barrels.
Fining or Filtering: Unfined, lightly filtered.
HOLGER KOCH :: Weißburgunder Kaiserstuhl
This Weißburgunder from the loess soils of the Kaiserstuhl is a racy and mineral-driven white that ends with a salty tang. A food-friendly and medium-bodied wine that bursts with freshness and adds a dose of casual elegance to any meal or evening.
Vintage: 2023
Grapes: Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc)
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 12%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg (from different vineyards around the village Bickensohl)
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 35 year old
Soils: Loess with a small amount of volcanic soils, on the flattest land at the lowest elevation
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Direct pressed, except for 3% skin-contact
Aging: 7 months, 60% in stainless steel, 40% in wooden barrels on the lees
Fining or Filtering: None
The Herrenstück Wines
HOLGER KOCH :: Pinot Noir Herrenstück
A level up from the Kaiserstuhl wines are the Herrenstück terraces, whose wines amplify the texture of their lower elevation counterparts without sacrificing freshness. The Pinot Noir Herrenstück is an absolute beauty. It exudes in the minerality of the soils and lingers on the palate with a “bloody, savory tomato depth that most people don’t get to see in Pinot because it’s rare and expensive in Burgundy.”
Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 25 years old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 14 day maceration
Aging: Elevage 11 months in 300 L/500 L barrels
Fining or Filtering: No fining, light filter
Naturals N*
HOLGER KOCH :: Chardonnay N*
Part of an exciting new line-up of macerated, sans-soufre wines, this 14-day maceration of Chardonnay is an alluring textural beauty. The wine is aged 7 mo in partially new wood barrels, adding an extra layer of complexity.
Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Chardonnay
Style: Skin-Contact Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 25 years old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 14-day maceration
Aging: 10 months in old wood barrels (predominantly 500L)
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2 added: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Pinot Gris N*
Part of an exciting new line of macerated, sans-soufre wines, this maceration of Pinot Gris is prismatic in the glass and and on the palate. Dreamlike fruit with crunchy herbaceousness and rolling acidity. Light “rosé” in color, aged 7 months in used barrels.
Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Pinot Gris
Style: Skin-Contact Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 25 years old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 14-day maceration
Aging: 10 months in old wood barrels (predominantly 500L)
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2 added: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Pinot Noir SF N*
This is the Pinot Noir Herrenstuck, made sans soufre and 30% carbonically macerated. Holger's decision to omit sulfur completely has given birth to a whole new wine--still stunning and balanced, yet with enough verve and romance to induce an adrenaline rush.
Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 25 years old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 25-50% destemmed; 18 day maceration
Aging: Elevage 11 months in 300L and 500L barrels
Fining or Filtering: None
SO2 added: None
PAST RELEASES
HOLGER KOCH :: Spätburgunder Kaiserstuhl
This addictive bottling of 35 yr old Spätburgunder vines boasts harmonious, delicate fruit. Tart cherry vibes, clear tannin structure and beautiful length — this German Pinot is, low key, the chilled red of your picnic dreams.
Vintage: 2022
Grapes: Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 35 year old
Soils: Loess soils on the flattest land with the least exposure to wind at the lowest elevation
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 14 days maceration in 3000L wooden casks
Aging: 9 months in 3000L wooden casks
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Weißburgunder Herrenstück
A level up from the Kaiserstuhl wines are the Herrenstück terraces, whose wines amplify the texture of their lower elevation counterparts without sacrificing freshness. This Weißburgunder is from a special windy terrace that produces pure grapes, perfect ripe, with balanced flavor and texture. A German Pinot Blanc that tastes “very Pinot Blanc-ey” in the best possible way.
Vintage: 2021
Grapes: Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc)
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 12%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 25 years old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 93% direct press, 7% skin contact, fermented in 1200L barrel
Aging: 7 months in 1200L barrels
Fining or Filtering: No fining, light filter
HOLGER KOCH :: Grauburgunder Herrenstück
A level up from the Kaiserstuhl wines are the Herrenstück terraces, whose wines amplify the texture of their lower elevation counterparts without sacrificing freshness. This Grauburgunder is a fun alternative to Chenin or Savagnin: the perfect cheese wine.
Vintage: 2017, 2018
Grapes: Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris)
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: 20 years old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 90% direct press, 10% skin contact
Aging: Elevage in 500L / 1200L casks
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Chardonnay/Weißburgunder Herrenstück
A level up from the Kaiserstuhl wines are the Herrenstück terraces, whose wines amplify the texture of their lower elevation counterparts without sacrificing freshness.
Although the devastating frosts left Holger with minuscule quantities of Chardonnay in 2021, the domaine’s Weißburgunder saved the day. We are pleased to present this special edition 60% Chardonnay and 40% Weißburgunder blend. Elevage in 500 L barrels.
Vintage: 2021
Grapes: 60% Chardonnay, 40% Weißburgunder
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: 12%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: Chardonnay from 10 year-old vines grafted from Puligny-Montrachet, 25 year-old Weißburgunder vines
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 300 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fermentation in 500L barrels
Aging: 7 months sur lie in 500 L barrels, with battonage every 4 weeks
Fining or Filtering: No fining, light filter
HOLGER KOCH :: Weißburgunder ***
For his Selections, Holger chooses the best grapes from the Herrenstück terraces, which he classifies as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. This Weißburgunder hails from a single parcel in the Scheibenhardt terrace of the Herrenstück. It is tense and nervy, with an electric edge.
Vintage: 2018
Grapes: Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc)
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines 25 year old
Soils: Loess and volcanic
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 90% direct press, 10% skin contact
Aging: Elevage in 500L cask
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Grauburgunder ***
For his Selections, Holger chooses the best grapes from the Herrenstück terraces, which he classifies as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. This Grauburgunder hails from a single parcel in the Herrenstück terraces for maximum expression. It is full of pent-up energy and could age for years.
Vintage: 2018
Grapes: Grauburgunder
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: year old
Soils: Loess soils on the flattest land with the least exposure to wind at the lowest elevation
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 90% direct press, 10% skin contact
Aging: Elevage in 500L cask
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Chardonnay ***
For his Selections, Holger chooses the best grapes from the Herrenstück terraces, which he classifies as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. This Chardonnay is an exquisite rendition of Chardonnay Herrenstück, with the best grapes selected from a single terraced parcel.
Vintage: 2019
Grapes: Chardonnay
Style: White Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: year old
Soils: Loess soils on the flattest land with the least exposure to wind at the lowest elevation
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 90% direct press, 10% skin contact
Aging: Elevage in 500L cask
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Pinot Noir *
For his Selections, Holger chooses the best grapes from the Herrenstück terraces, which he classifies as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. This Pinot Noir sees a level up in complexity due to a higher concentration of volcanic soils. Drinks like a young Burgundy.
Vintage: 2017, 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: year old
Soils: Volcanic
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fully destemmed, 14 day maceration
Aging: Aged 15 months in 300L barrels
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Pinot Noir ***
For his Selections, Holger chooses the best grapes from the Herrenstück terraces, which he classifies as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. This Pinot Noir enjoys an even greater expression than the Pinot Noir * since it comes from a single vineyard with more complexity in the soil at a higher altitude.
Vintage: 2017, 2018
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: year old
Soils: Volcanic
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 20% whole cluster fermentation with punchdowns by hand
Aging: Aged 15 months in barrel
Fining or Filtering: None
HOLGER KOCH :: Pinot Noir Reserve
For his Selections, Holger chooses the best grapes from the Herrenstück terraces, which he classifies as *, ***, and Reserve. You can think of the stars like a ski slope: the more stars, the more extreme the conditions, the higher the elevation, the stronger the wind. The Reserve wines are the “summit.” They contain the ultimate grapes chosen each vintage from each Herrenstück terrace. When you reach the peak, you can close your eyes, take a whiff, and you’ll think you’re in Burgundy.
Vintage: 2016
Grapes: Pinot Noir
Style: Red Wine
Alcohol Content: %
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Baden-Württemberg
Viticulture: Practicing Organic. Certified until 2014
Age of Vines: year old
Soils: Volcanic
Elevation: 240 m
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 20% whole cluster in wooden casks with punchdowns by hand
Aging: Aged 15 months in barrel
Fining or Filtering: None
All Holger Koch and landscape photos by Jake Lindeman for Super Glou, unless otherwise noted. All product shots by Minum Selections.
